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| How To Spot An original Print https://www.8mmforumworldwide.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=608 |
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| Author: | Erik Schoolcraft [ Sat Apr 14, 2012 11:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: How To Spot An original Print |
Don't know much about new blood. I'm 37 and been in the hobby since high school. On the identity question, I have several prints from the 40's and 50's that have been verified as original 16mm prints mostly from WW2 that were downgrades from original 35mm negatives. Most of them are either two or three reel presentations and have transition marks in the upper right side of the frame. The reason is that the government had these films reprinted on small format for carriers and battleships so the troops could enjoy modern entertainment while deployed. Most of them were made very cheap and quick by joining the 35mm negs in 3 or sometimes 4 reel sets and quickly transferred. Most of them have either 5 mono tracks or vairable density to be addaptable to any projector. I also have one of the Navy projectors used to show these prints on boats or bases if anyone would like to see. It still plays modern prints very well but uses waaaaay too much electricity. Like I said in an earlier post to Dan, most modern prints even dating back to the middle 70's use a double mono soundtrack. Anything earlier can be tracked by film stock or soundtrack type. |
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| Author: | Jeff Missinne [ Thu Sep 20, 2012 7:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: How To Spot An original Print |
Re multiple cue marks, etc. Very few TV stations had the desire (OR STORAGE SPACE) to maintain "house prints" of feature films; so these were usually shared among many stations. Each station's editor would cut the print as he saw fit, and add cue marks for commercial breaks; after airing, the print would be re-assembled and sent back to the distributor (or perhaps forward to the next station if time was tight!) So the print would pick up each station's set of marks. TV series and cartoons were usually stored "in house;" an older series though might pick up multiple cue marks from earlier station runs for the same reason. Cartoons may have suffered least; but one local station ran Walter Lantz cartoons in random order and would re-cut them differently each time (lopping off the first parts of all but the first cartoon!) so those prints grew ratty looking in a hurry. A friend, since passed on, used to work for a distributor of sponsored industrial films...(remember them?)...part of his job was to check condition of prints; and when they became too worn for TV showings, move them into the prints sent out for schools and clubs! |
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| Author: | Roy Neil [ Fri Nov 09, 2012 7:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: How To Spot An original Print |
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| Author: | Erik Schoolcraft [ Sat Nov 10, 2012 2:48 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: How To Spot An original Print |
Oh, Roy. So new and so want to bash somebody. What Phil told you was true. Some studios allowed dupes to be printed so they didn't have to go through the trouble of printing 16mm copies of 35mm films so they lent it off to other companies to do so. Basically this was an open forum for releasing 16mm copies of films mostly during WWII. It was an easy way to pick up government contracts since films shown on destroyers and aircraft carriers were sent on 16mm to save shipping space. Those films were called 'dupes' but made mostly by professional companies on smaller stock. 16mm To be exact. So the info you got was right. There are a lot of 16mm 'Dupe' prints out there but it depends on when they were made and who made them. Starting with WWII through the Vietnam war several 'dupe' prints were made by professional companies and very well done. The 'dupe' prints you are referring to were probably made in some guy's garage and sold on ebay. Big difference. |
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| Author: | Mike O'Regan [ Sat Nov 10, 2012 3:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: How To Spot An original Print |
Quote: In one of my many conversations with him over the phone he informed me that some dupes are in fact 'originals', or more accurately, ' original dupes ' The explanation Phil gave me was that some houses were given authority by the studios to create these 'dupes' so they are considered originals. Nevertheless, if they're made from existing 16mm prints, they are still dupes. However, I've come across dupes that look beautiful. Depends on who did them and the care taken. |
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| Author: | Dan Lail [ Mon Nov 12, 2012 9:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: How To Spot An original Print |
Quote: In one of my many conversations with him over the phone he informed me that some dupes are in fact 'originals', or more accurately, ' original dupes ' Roy is right. An original "is" an original not a great looking "dupe". And, like Mike O' said, there are some great looking dupes out there because of excellent lab work. Quote: Oh, Roy. So new and so want to bash somebody. Roy may be new to the this forum, but not to things film. Roy is an asset to the advancement of the hobby with his many ideas and ingenious inventions. i don't think he was bashing, but rather making a legitimate point. |
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