8MM-16MM FORUM WORLDWIDE

Dan,

He's mechanically inclined. He works on tractors at his farm and he says this is baffling! From what I see, it can be removed from the left side. I also told him to lube up the gears. He says the problem is that it plays fine at 24FPS but when you switch it to 18, it plays at the wrong speed. He has sound home movies that were shot in 18FPS by his grandfather 38 years ago. If he plays super 8 sound movies commercially done such as castle; kent; etc., they're fine. He put tension on the belt as he had it in 18FPS with the movies in and it was fine; so he needs a tighter belt. The other slight problem is getting the belt. I gave isellprojectorbelts the make and model and he doesn't know which belt is conducive. I'm not getting anything out of it; just helping out someone. He's a nice kid and appreciative. I'll keep you posted. And you're a nice "kid" too, Dan. Thanks for your suggestions and posting the pics.

John

John, a fellow who can work on a tractor can fix anything.

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Has anyone tried the weldable belting material that you see on eBay. It seems as though it could be the answer to these sort of problems. I've never tried it myself but I did get some in two widths (one for super 8 and one for 16mm) which I've put away in my spares drawer for just this type of situation.

Paul.

Paul, I haven't tried them. I've had good luck ordering different size round belts from industrial sites online. Also form isellprojectorbelts on Ebay.

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Dan,

Fortunately he (Troy) got it off. I told him to send it to Mark; my belt source who's always pulled through for me over the years. He'll mail it and I told Mark to match up a belt 1/8" smaller in size. That should do it.

I told him to join the site. Dan Lail; CEO/president/founder requires all newbies to send him mint GS 1200 or it won't be possible to join. j/k. ...but I did tell him it's a helpful and informative site to join with any questions he may have.

John, I really like your requirements to join the forum! One thing more, I'll require a
"platter onna plank" too.

Just curious, do you know how he got the belt off that pulley behind the shutter wheel?

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What I like about the weldable belting is it allows you to replace a belt directly onto the pulleys before joining it with the hot knife or soldering iron thus saving you all the problems of disassembling and reassembling the projector. If its a straight forward job obviously the normal belts are best. I have never used it myself, but I bought some just in case.

Paul.

Paul, you have a good point there! No wrestling with parts removal would save a lot of time. How long do these weldable belts last?

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Dan,

All is well. He said it took him about 15-20 minutes to figure out how to remove the belt and when he did, I've sent him a new one from my source. He then said only 5 minutes to install. The problem was a stretched belt. Now he's happy and can't thank me enough for getting back to him so quickly.

I told him to drive his tractor with an articulated license plate to your place in GA for a beer.

smiles

Sorry for the delay in replying to this. I have never used this weldable belting material myself yet. I just got it in case I ever needed it, and the only person I have talked to who had used it said it snapped fairly quickly. However this could have been because he made the belt too tight. It is a rough, grip able material so it should not slip on the pulleys. The instructions recommend that you cut to a generous fit as the belt works better when not too tight over the pulleys. If it is too loose it can always be re-jointed. To make joins they advise using the old belt or a piece of string to ascertain length to cut belting. Make the cut straight across, use a hot knife and offer up ends to either side to form ”mushroom” ends. Remove knife and press ends together then mould with fingers to smooth down ridges. Leave until cold before tensioning over pulleys. Obviously it is better to use the correct belts, but for those really hard to fit situations this could be an effective choice.

Paul.